Each week, we share some favorite recent bites, the dishes and snacks and baked goods that didn’t find their way into a full review. Want the list a few days earlier? Sign up for our free newsletter, Bite Curious.
After the recent sale of Oakland’s Sequoia Diner to new owners, I caught wind of ex-employees starting a new concept called Just Vibing, which held its first popup this past weekend. The menu featured sandwiches, burgers and burritos, but the founders promise to deliver a similar made-from-scratch ethos as Sequoia. I visited the inaugural popup at Oakland bottle shop Good Times, and the turnout was overwhelming. I opted for the breakfast burrito, which incorporated thick hunks of smoked brisket, soft scrambled eggs and grilled onions. It was complemented by an earthy salsa verde with sneaky heat. While the setting was different from Sequoia, Just Vibing had a similar charm and affection.
Recently, I slid into the bar at Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in North Beach, which is regularly crowded with locals and tourists who spill out onto the sidewalk as they wait to be seated. I sat at the far end of the bar, next to the shelf of competition trophies awarded to pizzaiolo Tony Gemignani. I sipped a frosty draft Peroni as I ate buffalo wings, which were brined, baked and then fried until crunchy and schmaltzy. I also enjoyed the crispiness of the crust on the coal-fired tomato pie but not nearly as much as the scene.
Tortilleria El Molino in Concord still makes one of the Bay Area’s best potato tacos. The half moons are stuffed with a potato mixture then deep fried until golden brown. The crackle of the taco’s exterior nicely contrasts the softness of the filling, while toppings such as lettuce, cheese and sour cream bring freshness. The salsa, which gets its smokiness from charred peppers, ties the taco together, offering full-bodied flavor over prickly heat.
